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Organic Chemistry II
Dr. Bryan Roberts





Product Label Analysis
Facial Lotion



Click to View Ingredients

Water is a widely used cosmetic ingredient, with the highest concentration.  Only a 10% concentration of water in the outer layer of skin is necessary for softness and pliability in this part of the epidermis.  Glycerin is a polyhydric alcohol and is classed as a polyol. It is used as a fragrance ingredient, humectant, skin-conditioning agent, skin protectant and viscosity decreasing agent. It is also known as glycerin, glycerol, glycol alcohol, as well as 1,2,3-propanetriol and 1,2,3-trihydroxypropane.  Isohexadecane is used as a detergent cleansing agent, emulsifier, and thickening agent in cosmetics.  Trolamine is used in the lotion to help protect the skin form the sun’s ultra-violet radiation and reduce sun burn.  Sorbitan stearate is  used to thicken and stabilize cosmetic formulations.  Myristyl Alcohol (Di-PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Adipate) is a derivative of myristyl alcohol (a fatty alcohol) and adipic acid (a buffering and neutralizing ingredient). It is used as a skin-conditioning agent and solvent.  Cetyl alcohol is used in the cosmetic industry as a surfactant in shampoos and hair conditioners, as an emollient and as an emulsifier and thickening agent in the manufacture of skin creams and lotions. It is also employed as a lubricant for nuts and bolts.  It is also known as 1-hexadecanol and palmityl alcohol, is a solid organic compound, and is a member of the alcohol class of compounds.  At room temperature, cetyl alcohol takes the form of a waxy white solid or flakes. It belongs to the group of fatty alcohols.  Stearyl alcohol (also known as octadecyl alcohol or 1-hexadecanol) is a substance prepared from stearic acid by the process of catalytic hydrogenation. It is a fatty alcohol. It takes the form of white solid granules or flakes which are insoluble in water, with a melting point of 59°C and boiling point of 210°C. It has a wide range of uses as an ingredient in lubricants, resins, perfumes and cosmetics. It is used as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickener in ointments of various sorts, and is widely used as a hair coating in shampoos and hair conditioners.  It is used as an emulsion stabilizer, emulsifying and foam boosting surfactant, as well as an aqueous and nonaqueous viscosity-increasing agent.  Cholesterol is a sterol (a combination steroid and alcohol) and a lipid found in the cell membranes of all body tissues, and transported in the blood plasma of all animals.  Linoleic acid is a polyunsaturated fatty acid used in the biosynthesis of prostaglandins and is found in cell membranes and in other natural oils. These oils include vegetable oil, especially sunflower oil.  To be fully utilised by the body, LA must be converted into GLA, a reaction catalysed by the enzyme delta-6-desaturase (D6D).  Ceramide 3 & Cermide 6II-- A synthetic N-acylated sphingoid chemical base that is identical to any one of the many constituents of the natural ceramides (as found in human skin) and will have an INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) labelling name using the term ceramide followed by a number (e.g. Ceramide 3) or a number and Roman numeral (e.g. Ceramide 6II).  Ceramide (N-Acyl-D-erythro-sphingosine, Fig. 1) is a structural component of mammalian glycolipids and of a phospholipid, sphingomyelin.   Ceramide derivatives attracted attention as potential therapeutic agents for the treatment of cancer, allergy, and other diseases originating from cell regulation disorders. Ceramide itself is a signaling substance that can be released from sphingomyelin in response to extracellular and intracellular stimuli.  Methylparaben is the ester of methyl alcohol and p-hydroxybenzoic acid and is classified as both an ester and a phenol. It is used as a preservative and a fragrance ingredient.  Propylparaben is the ester of n-propyl alcohol and p-hydroxybenzoic acid and is classified as both ester and phenol. It is used as a preservative, as well as a fragrance ingredient. Propylparaben is extensively used in cosmetics.  Carbomer, a homopolymer of acrylic acid, is crosslinked with an allyl ether pentaerythritol, an allyl ether of sucrose, or an allyl ether of propylene. It is classified as a synthetic polymer and used as an emulsion stabilizer as well as an aqueous viscosity-increasing agent.  Phenoxyethanol is an aromatic ether alcohol and is classified as both an alcohol and an ether. It is used as a fragrance ingredient as well as a preservative.  Disodium EDTA (disodium edetate) is a substituted diamine and is classed as an alkyl-substituted amino acid. It is used as a chelating agent and is also known as [Acetic Acid, (Ethylendinitilo) Tetra-, Disodium Salt], Disodium Edetate and Disodium Ethylenediaminetetraacetate.  Commonly referred to as EDTA, it is a stabilizer in cosmetic products and is a chelating compound. The function of a chelating compound is to prevent ingredients from binding to any trace elements that may be present. Should these mineral trace elements bind with other ingredients you may have unwanted changes in your product that could influence the texture, consistency or even the smell of the product.  Iodopropynyl butylcarbamate is used as a preservative in cosmetics.



http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki accessed on 12/12/05
http://www.cehmfinder.com accessed on 12/15/05
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Menthol
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Propylene_glycol
http://www.doctorsegalla.com/images/evolution/sorbitan.jpg
http://www.mdpi.net/ecsoc-5/c0013/c0013.htm
http://www.avantilipids.com/ProductStructures.asp?n=860608
http://www.jcia.org/image/555806.png
http://www.cosmeticscop.com/learn/dictionary.asp?TYPE=SEARCH&ID=E


© 2007  Vishal Patel

Last updated November 28, 2007

vishalpa@sas.upenn.edu