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Organic Chemistry II
Dr. Bryan Roberts





Product Label Analysis
Foot Scrub

Click to View Ingredients

Water is a widely used cosmetic ingredient, with the highest concentration.  Only a 10% concentration of water in the outer layer of skin is necessary for softness and pliability in this part of the epidermis.   TEA – lauryl sulfate is the triethanolamine salt of lauryl sulfuric acid and is classed as an alkyl sulfate. It is used as a cleaning surfactant and is also known as Triethanolamine Lauryl Sulfate and Triethanolammonium Lauryl Sulfate.  Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice is obtained from the aloe plant.  Aloe vera, is used to stabilize the product. It also softens and soothes the skin. Aloe Vera, known as the lily plant of the desert, contains roughly 160 beneficial ingredients recognized by modern science. For its use in body care Aloe Vera has significant moisturizing, protective and regenerative properties. Aloe contains 95% water; plus minerals, amino acids, proteins and polysaccharides and is therefore a precious treasure when it comes to moisturizing. This valuable ingredient to high quality body care protects skin from dryness, supports the natural balance of the skin and is ideal for after sun care due to its cooling and soothing properties. Most skin types highly tolerate Aloe Vera, making it perfect for sensitive skin.   Cetyl alcohol is an organic compound and a member of the alcohol class of compounds.  Cetyl alcohol is used in the cosmetic industry as a surfactant in shampoos and hair conditioners, as an emollient and as an emulsifier and thickening agent in the manufacture of skin creams and lotions, as in the foot scrub. Cetyl alcohol is also used as an aqueous and nonaqueous viscosity-increasing agent.  Cocamidopropyl betaine is considered one of the more gentle surfactants used in skin-care products.  Walnut-shell powder is used as an abrasive used in scrub products.  Glycerin is used in the scrub as a solublyzing agent and to provide the scrub a viscous consistency.  Stearyl alcohol is prepared from stearic acid by the process of catalytic hydrogenation.  It is used as an emollient, emulsifier, and a thickener in the foot scrub.    Jojoba esters are mainly used as emollients in the foot scrub.  Jojoba esters are an excellent alternative to whale oil.  Capsicum is a large group of plants consisting primarily of the pepper family, including chili peppers and paprika. These are used as counter-irritants to relieve muscle aches. Capsicum and substances derived from it can cause allergic reactions or skin irritation and should never be applied to abraded skin.    Phenoxyethanol is a common cosmetic preservative that is considered one of the less irritating ones to use in formulations.  It does not release formaldehyde.  Butylparaben is the ester of butyl alcohol and p-hydroxybenzoic acid and is classed as both an ester and a phenol.  It can be used as a fragrance ingredient, as well as a preservative.  Ethylparaben is the ester of ethyl alcohol and p-hydroxybenzoic acid and is classified as both an ester and a phenol.  It is used as a preservative as well as a fragrance ingredient.  Methylparaben is the ester of methyl alcohol and p-hydroxybenzoic acid and is classified as both an ester and a phenol. It is used as a preservative and a fragrance ingredient.  Propylparaben is the ester of n-propyl alcohol and p-hydroxybenzoic acid and is classified as both an ester and a phenol. It is used as a preservative, as well as a fragrance ingredient.  Carbomers are synthetic polymers used as emulsion stabilizers & thickening agents in cosmetic products.  Fragrance can be one or a blend of either volatile and/or fragrant plant oils (or synthetically derived oils) that impart aroma and odor to products. These are often skin irritants.  Tetrasodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It is used to prevent minerals present in formulations from bonding to other ingredients.  Glycolic acid is used in the foot scrub as a preservative.  Lactic acid is used as an exfoliant and a pH adjuster in the foot scrub.  Malic acid  is an example of an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA).  AHAs are derived from various plant sources or from milk.  However, 99% of the AHAs used in cosmetics are synthetically derived.  In low concentrations (less than 3%) AHAs work as water-binding agents.  At concentrations over 4% and in a base with a pH of 3 to 4, these can exfoliate skin cells by breaking down the substance in skin that holds skin cells together.  The most effective and well-researched AHAs are glycolic acid and lactic acid.  Malic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid may also be effective but are considered less stable and less skin-friendly; there is little research showing them to have benefit for skin.  Triethanolamine is used in cosmetics as a pH balancer. Like all amines, it has the potential for creating nitrosamines. There is controversy as to whether this poses a real problem for skin, given the low concentrations used in cosmetics and the theory that nitrosamines can’t penetrate skin.



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