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Organic Chemistry II
Dr. Bryan Roberts





Product Label Analysis
Shampoo
 Shampoo

Click To View Ingredients

Water is a widely used cosmetic ingredient, with the highest concentration.  Only a 10% concentration of water in the outer layer of skin is necessary for softness and pliability in this part of the epidermis.  Ammonium lauryl sulfate can be derived from coconut; used primarily as a detergent cleansing agent and is considered to be gentle and effective.   Ammonium laureth sulfate is derived from coconut; used primarily as a detergent cleansing agent and is considered to be gentle and effective.  Ammonium chloride is an alkaline salt used as a pH balancer in skin-care products; it is not used in concentrations that would be problematic for skin.  Kiwi fruit extract, has significant antioxidant properties that may even be greater than those of vitamin C.  The acid component of the kiwi can be a skin irritant.  Fruit (Sugarcane) extract & Jasmin Cocamidee (Jasminum Officinale) Extract -- Ingredients like sugarcane extract, fruit extracts, mixed fruit extracts, and milk solids may claim an association with AHAs, but they are not the same thing nor do they have the same beneficial effect on skin.  The original forms of these extracts do not have the same effect as the effective ingredients that are derived from them.  The same is true for lactic acid, derived from milk.  If milk were as acid as lactic acid you would not be able to drink it without serious complications.  There is a vast difference between the extracted, pure ingredient and the original form of the source material.  Tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E) is considered an antioxidant superstar. Vitamin E is a lipid-soluble vitamin (meaning it likes fat better than water) that has eight different forms, of which some are known for being excellent antioxidants when applied topically to skin, particularly alpha tocopherol and the tocotrienols.  The acetate form (tocopherol acetate) is also bioavailable and protective for skin.  Tocopherol sorbate also is known for providing significant antioxidant protection against ultraviolet radiation–induced oxidative damage.  Cocamide MEA (alkyloamides) are identified on skin-care product labels as DEA, triethanolamine (TEA), and MEA (monoethanolamine), and are used primarily for their foaming ability in shampoos, but can also be used as thickening or binding agents. They can be skin irritants. In addition, alkyloamides contain a free amine that can combine with formaldehyde-releasing preservatives in cosmetics, and there is concern that they may form carcinogens.  Fragrance can be a single oil or a blend of either volatile and/or fragrant plant oils (or synthetically derived oils) that impart aroma and odor to products.  These are often skin irritants.  DMDM hydantoin is a formaldehyde-releasing preservative.  Peg-5 Cocamide is used as a foam boosting agent in shampoos and soaps.  Citric Acid is derived from citrus and used primarily to adjust the pH of products to prevent them from being too alkaline.  Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose is used as a thickener and a foam enhancer.  Tetrasodium EDTA is used as a preservative and a water softener.  DMDM Hydrantoin is used as a sequestaring agent.  Methylchloroisothiazolinone in combination with methylisothiazolinone, goes by the trade name Kathon CG. Introduced into cosmetics in the mid-1970s, it elicited a great number of sensitizations in consumers. This led to its withdrawal from cosmetics other than in rinse-off products.  Butylene glycol, along with other glycols and glycerol, is a humectant or humidifying and delivery ingredient used in cosmetics.  Ethoxydiglycol is an ingredient that is used to dissolve or break down other ingredients in a formulation. Solvents are also used to degrease skin and to remove sebum.  Propylene glycol is a humectant or humidifying and delivery ingredient used in cosmetics.  Methylisothiazolinone, is used as a preservative in hair care products and shampoos and in some paint formulations.   . Preservative that should be used only in rinse-off products because it can be too irritating when left on skin.  FD&C is a type of coloring agent.  According to the FDA, when FD&C is followed by a color, the color is certified as safe for use in food, drugs, and cosmetics.  ED&C yellow No. 5 (CI 19140) & FD&C Blue No. 1 (CI 42090) are used in precise proportions to give the shampoo the desired shade of green.

References:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki assessed on 12/23/05
www.googleimages.com accessed on 12/23/05
www.chemdraw.com accessed on 12/23/05

© 2007  Vishal Patel

Last updated November 28, 2007

vishalpa@sas.upenn.edu