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A Chemical Exploration of My Morning

It’s 4:45 and my alarm is blaring. Time to get up and get ready to go to school. I suppose that I should make myself vaguely presentable. So, I stumble to the shower, and the unrecognized contribution of chemistry to my daily routine begins. Without the developments that are presented below, I would be a smelly and greasy creature. Not the most pleasant of pictures. I have decided to examine the often overlooked chemicals that are present in my everyday routine. I didn’t want to go out of my way to look for something; I wanted to show the use of a large variety of chemicals that I use in the space of one half-hour. And to be frank, the number of compounds present in the seven or so products that I use without fail is staggering.

We’ll begin in my shower. The first step is shampoo; specifically Biolage brand. The list of ingredients begins with water, which we shall overlook, especially since it is present in nearly every product at which I looked. The initial compound listed is sodium laureth sulfate, also abbreviated as SLS. Its chemical formula is CH₃(CH₂)₁₀CH₂(OCH₂CH₂)_nOSO₃Na (1). This is a common detergent and surfactant, and is also used as a foaming agent. Surfactants contain both hydrophobic and hydrophilic ends; this makes them very useful compounds for cleaning. The hydrophobic end attaches to grease and oil while the hydrophilic end is attracted to water. Thus, the grease is just pulled away when the surfactant is rinsed off. It is a milder version of sodium lauryl sulfate, which is a detergent that is a bit too harsh to use for the cleansing of skin and hair. The most interesting discovery about the SLS is the persistent rumors of toxicity and carcinogenic properties. These seem to be mostly unfounded and completely blown out of proportion, given that SLS is used regularly and is not under any restricted use. Another surfactant used in this shampoo is coco-betaine, which works in a similar fashion as SLS.

Many of the compounds seem to perform the same purpose. These repetitive ingredients include trimethylsilylamodimethicone, polyquaternium-10, laureth-5 carboxylic acid and PPG-5-ceteth-20 which are compounds for which no structure was available. Trimethylsilylamodimethicone is a branched chain silicone fluid that is deposited on hair as a thin film. This allows for easier combing and less tangling and makes hair feel softer. The other ingredients also allow for film formation and have moisturizing properties, and are compatible with a large variety of surfactants, which allows them to be used in a variety of personal cleansers. They also work as an anti-static agent, which is appreciated after a morning of hat wearing. The PPG-5 ceteth-20 is also an emollient, while laureth-5 carboxylic acid is also an emulsifier.

Cocamide Mipa is used as a foam stabilizer, so all the nice lather that gets built up stays all bubbly. It is also a thickening agent, keeping the shampoo from being too runny. Another thickening agent is PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate.

Polypropylene glycol (2) is a moisturizing ingredient.

Sodium benzoate (3) is used as a preservative. It is an anti-microbial agent that works best at lower pH values. It specifically interferes with the ability of bacteria, yeasts, and molds to make energy. Another preservative and anti-microbial is methylparaben (4), also known as methyl 4-hydroxybenzoate, with a formula of C₈H₈O₃. This makes sense as both sodium benzoate and methylparaben are derivatives of benzoic acid. Butylparaben (5), ethylparaben (6), isobutylparaben (7), and propylparaben (8) are additional ingredients that are also derivatives of benzoic acid, and therefore are used for a similar purpose as sodium benzoate and methylparaben. The propylparaben is less water soluble than the methylparaben, which makes it a good preservative in a product that contains both oil and water.

Salicylic acid (9) is used in shampoos because it is an exfoliant, removing dead skin cells and thereby preventing dandruff.

Some compounds have been added simply to add fragrance to a product. Among these are hexyl cinnamal (10), coumarin (11), linalool (12), hydroxycitronellal (13), and amyl cinnamal (14). These all lend a slightly sweet and slightly spicy fragrance to the product.

Following shampoo is conditioner; again, Biolage. (I believe in product loyalty.) Because this is from the same company, it contains many of the same compounds that add fragrance, such as coumarin, amyl cinnamal, and the others seen above. It also contains geraniol (15), however, which is a flower-scented compound not added to the shampoo.

Cetearyl alcohol (16) is a compound that is an emulsifier and emollient. It holds together the oily and the watery portions of the conditioner. It also thickens the formulation.

To provide an anti-static factor, behentrimonium chloride (17) is added, as is cetrimonium chloride (18). These work by making the hair slightly conductive. To keep hair moisturized, glycerin (19) is one of the top ingredients. It is a humectant, so it attracts water, thereby moisturizing both hair and skin. Amodimethicone is a silicone fluid that behaves like trimethylsilylamodimethicone seen in the shampoo above. Trideceth-12 is an anti-build-up component. It slightly weakens the silicone additive (such as amodimethicone) to prevent them from building up on the hair shaft.

Chlorhexidine dihydrochloride (20) is an anti-microbial agent.

Polysorbate-20 serves many purposes as an emulsifier, fragrance solubilizer and stabilizer, and lubricator.

Now that the hair is supposedly soft and shiny, I move on to the soap, specifically Purity Made Simple by Philosophy. Theoretically, this should contain compounds with similar duties as the shampoo compounds, since both have the purpose of cleansing.

Disodium lauroamphodiacetate is a mild amphoteric surfactant. It is easier on the hair and skin than many cationic surfactants, so it helps to prevent irritation. Coco-glucoside is a gentle surfactant, anionic in nature, that is made from coconuts. Yet another surfactant present in this soap is sodium trideceth sulfate. Hexylene glycol (21) is a germicidal detergent.

PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate is a thickener that can also act as a moisturizer. It also reduces the irritation that can be caused by surfactants. Polysorbate-20 serves the same purpose as seen in the conditioner, as does glycerin. Carbomer is an emulsion stabilizer and a thickening agent.

Triethanolamine (22) is another emulsifying surfactant, a pH adjuster, a fragrance ingredient, and a thickening agent. It also contains the microbial agents: methylparaben and propylparaben. Imidazolidinyl urea (23) is another microbial agent that is non-irritating.

So, now I’m out of the shower and ready to moisturize, using a body lotion also by Philosophy. The first ingredient is a multi-tasker. Isocetyl stearoyl stearate acts as an emollient, moisturizer, and viscosity adjuster. Glycerin is also an ingredient that moisturizes as seen in the above products. Dimethicone is a silicone that gives lotions a softer feel as well as acts as an emulsifier. Another emulsifier is glyceryl stearate (24). Cetearyl and cetyl alcohol act as emulsifiers, thickeners, and emollients, much as they did in the conditioner. Polysorbate-60 is yet another emulsifier and PEG-100 stearate is an emollient, moisturizer and emulsifier. Stearic acid (25) is used as a thickener and emulsifier. It also gives a soft, smooth texture to the lotion. Tocopheryl acetate (26), also known as vitamin E acetate, is a vitamin that acts as an antioxidant and slows the appearance of aging. Potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate increases the antioxidant action of vitamins C and E. Diazolidinyl urea (27) is an antibacterial preservative. Triethanolamine is also present in this lotion, more than likely acting as a fragrance ingredient and a thickening agent. Tetrasodium EDTA (28) is a chelating agent that reacts with salts within a formulation to prevent them from bonding with other ingredients as well as preventing microbial growth. Once again, methylparaben and propylparaben show up as antimicrobials.

Now, I want to make sure that I don’t get smelly throughout my day. So I apply Secret brand deodorant. Cyclopentasiloxane is a silicone based chemical that improves the efficacy of anti-perspirants, and lends to a powdery feel on application. Stearyl alcohol (29) is also present and is an emollient, emulsifier, and thickening agent. Dimethicone is also present and gives the deodorant a softer feel. PPG-14 butyl ether is an anti-static agent (although I’m not quite sure of the relevance of an anti-static agent in a deodorant). Panthenyl triacetate is also known as vitamin B. It is a skin moisturizer and an anti-inflammatory. The other vitamin present is vitamin E or tocopheryl acetate, which is an antioxidant. Behenyl alcohol (30) is used to thicken and stabilize formulations. It also gives a smooth feeling to emulsions. Finally, the most important ingredient is the active ingredient of aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrex GLY which serves as an antiperspirant.

Next, I have to put on some SPF lotion before I head out the door. Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (31) is the sunblock that absorbs UV rays. Ethylhexyl salicylate (32) is another sunblock that absorbs certain UV rays that is present in the lotion. Benzophenone-3 (33) is another sunblock ingredient present in the lotion as is butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane. C12-15 alkyl benzoate prevents the lotion from feeling greasy, as does cyclomethicone, which is a silicone based compound. Polypropylene glycol is a moisturizing ingredient. Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate enhances the SPF of the other ingredients. Cetyl phosphate is a stabilizer. Ethylhexyl palmitate ensures spreadability of the formulation. Triethanolamine is a pH adjuster and an emulsifying agent. The lotion also contains glyceryl stearate and stearic acid play roles as seen above. Phenyl trimethicone is a silicone based moisturizer and emollient that is water resistant. Another silicone based emollient is cetyl dimethicone. Panthenol (34), also known as vitamin B5, acts as a moisturizer. Phenylethyl alcohol (35) is a floral fragrance additive. Dimethicone copolyol is a silicone based ingredient that adds elasticity to the product. The lotion also contains a number of preservatives such as phenoxyethanol (36), and the multiple parabens from the previous formulas.

Last, I put on some lip gloss to complete my routine. The lip gloss has SPF 15, so it also contains ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate. Another sunscreen and emollient ingredient is butyloctyl salicylate and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane. Octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate increases viscosity and is a skin conditioner. Octyldodecanol is another thickening agent and so is trihydroxystearin. Polybutene and petrolatum are moisturizers, while the polybutene also allows for waterproofing.

Therefore, there are nearly 100 different chemicals (as well as a number that are in common throughout all of the products) that play a central role in the half hour before I walk out the door.

Structures:

(1)